The bus hasn’t even made it into third gear when the driver tells us it’s time to get out. Half an hour ago we were eating salteñas (Bolivia’s juicier, more delicious answer to the empanada) in a suburban café, and now we’re standing on a 15,000-foot Andean pass being buffeted by sleet. Before you start to question our sanity, know that by tomorrow morning we’ll be hiking through a subtropical wonderland. The Choro Trail is a 34-mile pre-Hispanic — and may even be pre-Incan — trail on the outskirts of Bolivia’s capital. Over three days, you’ll descend from 15,900 feet to 4,265 feet on mostly paved stone paths, passing through little-changed ancient communities that still use the road daily, and experience a dazzling illustration of the impacts of altitude on climate, vegetation and the human psyche. It’s cheap, uncrowded and — perhaps most importantly — almost all downhill. |