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InsideHook
MARCH 20, 2024
InsideHook

The Chef Residency Is the Restaurant World’s Most Exciting Trend

They looked like a pile of stolen crystals. Trapezoid of raw bass, a ghostly rose quartz. Verbena granita, fat icy flakes of crushed jade. An anointing of oil, some salt, a single leaf of nasturtium like a lid on top. This clean, herbal, citrusy crudo was a production of Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra, the chefs-owners whose confident ingredient pairings and peekaboo presentations influenced a generation of cooks at Contra in New York. But this dish wasn't at Contra, or even in NYC. The six-course tasting menu debuted last November — 20 days after Stone and von Hauske Valtierra closed Contra for good — at Teodoro. Heard of it?

Probably not. Furnished with a showpiece open kitchen and stunning sea views through floor-to-ceiling windows, Teodoro is the new flagship restaurant at Riviera Maya’s Impression Moxché by Secrets. Yes, that Secrets, recently adopted by the Hyatt family of hotels and looking to redefine all-inclusive resorts as places where you might actually be excited to eat. The dinner was the centerpiece of a weekend engagement with the New York chefs, the first in the Impression Makers Supper Club series. Pop-ups, residencies, retreats — call them what you like, but this kind of culinary programming is becoming more and more prevalent as chefs at all levels of their careers become less moored to the constraints of their restaurant kitchens, if they have restaurant kitchens at all.

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