| Dear reader, It’s not a great time to be a vegetarian in Toronto (or a cow, for that matter). It seems like every week, we’re reporting on the opening of a new steakhouse. And these aren’t just any steakhouses—there’s one in the old TSX space with its own Himalayan salt–lined aging room and a 24-karat gilded ceiling, while another takes up the entire 38th floor of the Well. And, most recently, one has taken over 16,000 square feet of Union Station, turning the transit hub into a dining destination—no disrespect to Commuter’s Lounge, the sad and smoky basement bar across from the (also long-gone) Amuse-o-Matic arcade. More than one of these new restaurants also serves sushi, real top-of-the-line surf to go with all that turf. Fiscally speaking, it seems like a very weird time to have an influx of such swish spots. Did Matty Matheson jumpstart this trend with Prime Seafood? Is it because, with grocery prices as they are, there’s hardly any difference between making Shake ‘n Bake at home or going out for steak au poivre? Or are the current cuckoo-bananas weather patterns making everyone think apocalyptic thoughts, so to hell with saving and planning? More Wagyu! More Hokkaido scallops! More Super Tuscans! The end is nigh! For those looking to increase their iron levels without breaking the bank, there’s Bear Steak Sandwiches, a new lunch counter with two menu items and a cult following. Forty years after the launch of Wendy’s “Where’s the beef?” ad campaign, we finally have an answer for Clara Peller: it’s here. |
