The classic coat has been reimagined way beyond its battlefield origins.
You know the classic trench, now meet the Frankentrench | The Guardian
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Halter top, £27.99, Zara
camera Halter top, £27.99, Zara. Photograph: PR image

You know the classic trench, now meet the Frankentrench

Sliced and spliced, this season the classic coat has been reimagined way beyond its battlefield origins.

Chloe Mac Donnell Chloe Mac Donnell
 

Earlier this week, a TikTok video of fashion influencers went viral. Shot by the Dutch content creator Benthe Liem, the short clip features half a dozen women wearing roughly the same style of beige trenchcoat, presumably gifted to them by the brand hosting trip. Liem entitled the video, which has so far been viewed over 1.6m times: “When you think you are very unique (influencer trip edition).”

However, a quick jaunt down the high street is now akin to stepping into a real-life version of that clip. Here we are, only a couple of days into spring, and the trenchcoat has already become ubiquitous.

On Tuesday, Meghan, the Duchess of Sussex launched a shopping page featuring an edit of clothing from brands she wears. Among the oversized white shirts and Ray-Ban aviator sunglasses sits a £99.90 beige trench from Uniqlo. The retail giant’s creative director Clare Waight Keller had designed Markle’s wedding dress under her tenureship at Givenchy.

Markle’s fellow Santa Barbara resident, Gwyneth Paltrow, has also included a trench in her latest clothing release on Goop. Describing it as “a closet staple,“ Paltrow’s vanilla version comes belted with box-pleated detailing at the back.

It is 64 years since Audrey Hepburn appeared onscreen wearing a wheat-coloured trench in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. And it’s easy to see why the trench – loved by everyone from Brigitte Bardot to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis – continues to be desired. Nowadays, a trench is very Montecito-core coded, a type of dressing – all biscuit- and cream-coloured pieces and delicate jingly-jangly gold jewellery that has become synonymous with Markle, Paltrow and certain people at farmers’ markets in Los Angeles.

LOOKBOOK SPRING 2025Trench coat, £149, John Lewis
camera Trench coat, £149, John Lewis. Photograph: John Lewis / PR image

You don’t need to go to LA to witness it. I counted seven people wearing trench coats on my commute from east London this morning, including two in the French label Sézane – its £275 Clyde trench has a distinctive checked lining, visible on rolled-up sleeves. Sienna Miller is a fan and it consistently sells out. There are even YouTube videos and more recently, a Reddit forum dedicated to the Clyde.

Then of course, there’s high-street giants such as M&S, who each season brings out a new iteration of the trench. It’s seeing a spike in sales of its double-breasted longline trench, while a cropped trench is the No 4 best-selling piece in its entire coat category. The style has a trickle down and trickle up effect in the industry. Designers spanning Dior to Balenciaga included trenchcoats in their spring/summer 2025 collections. Gigi Hadid has worn a see-through PVC trenchcoat, while Rihanna favours a leather version. And this week, Kendall Jenner wore a trench that can be belted at the waist and the neck.

Now we are even seeing the emergence of what might be called Frankentrenches. John Lewis, Aligne and Albaray are championing trenchcoats with detachable capes. Others are taking it further. Cos has a cropped and sleeveless trench top. At Zara, a white halter neck top comes spliced with what looks like the mid section from a trenchcoat – belt and all. Meanwhile, Arket appears to have chopped a trenchcoat in half, selling a midi skirt with all the classic hallmarks of the coat – slanted pockets, double buttons and belt – but only from the waist down.

Originally worn by military officers in the literal trenches, this season’s riffs have completely reimagined the coat’s roots. I’m not sure what Thomas Burberry, who invented the traditional waterproof gabardine fabric in 1879, would make of a halterneck trench top, nor of Liem and her fellow influencers wearing a uniform trench look. Flattered or perhaps, like many, flummoxed.

The Measure

What’s hot – and what’s most definitely not – this week

From left, Parke’s £98 sweatshirt, Astrid & Miyu x Hertilityjewellery, and a model at the Saint Laurent womenswear spring-summer 2025 show.
camera From left, Parke’s sweatshirt, Astrid & Miyu x Hertility jewellery, and a model on the Saint Laurent catwalk. Composite: Corbis via Getty/Guardian Composite

Going up

Shoulder pads | Looking to emulate the Saint Laurent catwalk for less than £6? Just add a pair of shoulder pads from your local haberdashery shop to your favourite blazer.

Bunkers | Dubbed “doomsday dens”, the new housing must have for the ultra-rich includes decontamination chambers alongside swimming pools and enough supplies for 30 years. And yes, Zuck already has one.

Sunglasses | Welcome the return of pollen season.

Going down

Karaoke | Grab a dabber. Gen Z are bringing back bingo.

Nameplate necklaces | File Astrid & Miyu x Hertility’s vulva- and uterus-shaped charms under conversation starter.

T-shirts | It’s all about the branded it-sweatshirt. See Parke’s varsity mockneck.

Reads of the week

Alex Consani, seen here on the McQueen catwalk, shares all on the podcast Chicken Shop Date.
camera Alex Consani, seen here on the McQueen catwalk, shares all on YouTube series Chicken Shop Date. Photograph: Dave Benett/Sam Simpson/Getty Images for McQueen

Fashion’s game of musical chairs continues with changes at Mugler, reports Vogue Business. Do keep up!

Watch model Alex Consani chat chips and backstage shagging with Chicken Shop Date’s Amelia Dimoldenberg.

In an interview with the Telegraph, Carine Roitfeld describes Karl Lagerfeld’s beloved cat Choupette as “a bitch”. Meow!

Mark your diaries: the former British Vogue editor Edward Enninful is curating Tate Britain’s next big fashion and culture exhibition, The 90s.

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Style Clinic

Chloe Mac Donnell, deputy fashion and lifestyle editor, solves your wardrobe dilemmas

Abstract shirt, £36, River Island
camera Abstract shirt, £36, River Island. Photograph: PR

Q: I have been watching The White Lotus and like the type of colourful co-ords that the character Jaclyn, played by Michelle Monaghan, wears. I’d like to get something similar for a beach holiday in June but can’t afford designer prices. Where should I look on the high street? – Marnie

A: Jaclyn favours niche resort brands such as Alemais and Poupette St Barth. You might be able to find a bargain secondhand on online sites. If not, to emulate the look with high street clothes, start by focusing on flowy rather than fitted silhouettes. River Island has a rust and white abstract printed boxy shirt and matching wide-leg trousers that you can totally imagine her wearing while sauntering around/bickering in Ko Samui. Nobody’s Child has also started to launch its holiday edit. Its seaside-inspired printed pieces fit your brief perfectly. The best thing about co-ords is that you can mix and match them with other bits from your existing holiday wardrobe and cut down on packing space while you’re at it.

Got your own style question? Send it to fashionstatement@theguardian.com.

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