When figuring out which cookware to use, you’re essentially looking for three things:
- You want it to conduct heat efficiently and evenly.
- You don’t want to have to pry your food off the pan with a crowbar.
- You want to be reasonably certain that you’re not ingesting toxic components of said cookware along with each meal.
So here’s a quick guide to the best cookware. (While there are other varieties, these are the ones you’ll most frequently encounter.)
Cast Iron
The good: Durable, inexpensive, and versatile. It heats evenly, retains heat extremely well, and improves with use as it builds up a natural nonstick seasoning. Cooking in cast iron also increases the iron content of your food, which can be beneficial for those with low iron levels.
The bad: Heavy and requires regular maintenance to avoid rust and maintain the seasoning. Acidic foods like tomatoes can strip the seasoning and leach excess iron into food, which can be problematic for people with iron overload conditions. But if the seasoning is strong enough, you can cook with reasonable amounts of acidic ingredients.
How to use: People say you need to season new cast iron, but I find the best way to do it is to cook lots of bacon and use it to roast chickens. After a few bouts of this, the seasoning will be established and you’ll be searing the best steaks of your life.
Verdict: Purchase and use. With proper care, cast iron will last a lifetime and is ideal for searing, frying, and roasting.
Lodge is still the best for the money. It’s reasonably priced and while you can spend three times as much on artisanal cast iron, I don’t think it’s worth the difference. Iron is iron.
Stainless Steel
The good: Non-reactive, durable, and safe. Stainless steel doesn’t leach metals into your food and is resistant to corrosion and rust. It can handle high heat and works for almost any cooking method. It’s also relatively easy to clean.
The bad: Heat retention isn’t as strong as cast iron, and cheaper stainless steel cookware can heat unevenly unless it’s clad with an aluminum or copper core.
How to use: There are two main methods for using stainless steel cookware:
- Heat the pan up dry (no fat) until water droplets bead up and bounce around on the surface, then add fat, then add the food.
- Start with the food in the cold pan, then slowly heat it up. This only works with fatty food, like ground beef, bacon, or skin-down duck breast.
Verdict: Purchase and use. It’s a reliable, safe option for all-around cooking and well worth the investment.
When shopping: Stick to 3-ply or above. The “ply” refers to the number of layers of steel. Thicker is generally better and means better heat retention and higher temperatures. Any basic set will work.
Enameled Cast Iron
The good: Combines the heat retention and durability of cast iron with a non-reactive, low-maintenance enamel coating. It’s perfect for cooking acidic foods like tomato sauces, stews, and braises. It’s also easy to clean and doesn’t require seasoning. And the aesthetics are unmatched—enameled cast iron is simply beautiful to look at.
The bad: Heavy, expensive, and prone to chipping if mishandled. The enamel coating doesn’t have the same nonstick properties as seasoned cast iron.
How to use: Heat up fat over medium/medium-high heat and sear the meat, then add aromatics, then deglaze with wine or broth, cover, and cook over low heat. This works for pretty much every stew-type meal. Use wooden spatulas, never metal or plastic.
Verdict: Purchase and use. Enameled cast iron is excellent for long, slow cooks, and its versatility makes it worth the investment.
Good brands: Le Creuset is the industry standard for good reason. Very high quality and will last a lifetime. Lodge also makes one.
Carbon Steel
The good: Lighter than cast iron but with similar heat retention and nonstick seasoning properties. It heats quickly, making it ideal for stir-frying, searing, and other high-heat cooking methods. It’s incredibly durable and can last for generations with proper care. You can sear just as well with carbon steel as with cast iron without dinner turning into an arm day.
The bad: Requires seasoning and ongoing maintenance to prevent rust. Like cast iron, acidic foods can strip the seasoning.
How to use: You have to season it just like you do cast iron.
Verdict: Purchase and use. Carbon steel is a fantastic, lighter alternative to cast iron for high-heat cooking.
Good brands: Matfer Bourgeat.
What kind of cookware do you use? What are your go-to brands?
