Hiking France's southern Alps, Basque surfing, UK's best pub grub
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Good evening.

Moments in true wildness can feel rare on these built-up isles. There are the Highlands of Scotland, where the population density is around eight people per square kilometre. There are the north Pennines, described as England’s last wilderness. Then there’s Dartmoor, a place “when, in an instant, soft southern England summons its dark side”.

This “instant” is what writer James Gingell describes as “a Dartmoor moment”. That realisation when “you’ve walked away from fires and towels and teacups”, when “you’re far from the chocolate-box villages on the moor’s edge”, and you suddenly feel you’re in harsh country. It can daunt the unwary, he says, but come with the right kit and grit, and that moment can be a thrill. It’s also the only place in England where you are allowed to wild camp - for now.

Elsewhere in Europe, wildness is more easily attainable. Rhiannon Batten and her family tap into traditional shepherds’ culture in the southern French Alps by following old transhumance routes up into the mountains and staying in remote refuges. On their trip, they discover the sole permanently inhabited village within a French national park. “Up, up, up we go until, finally, we cross a little footbridge over a ravine and arrive in a meadow laced with buttercups, apple trees and scented paperwhites. Goldfinches are calling and smoke curls from the chimneys of Dormillouse’s larch-roofed cottages.”

Meanwhile, the Wild Atlantic Way is a very clever piece of marketing dreamt up 10 years ago to lure people over to the west coast of Ireland after the financial crisis of 2008. It is a 1,600-mile route running from County Cork in the south-west to County Donegal in the north-west, weaving through nine counties and taking in some of Europe’s most spectacular scenery. But it’s easy to go off-road to experience some truly wild west coast landscapes, as Jane Dunford writes: “In Connemara national park, we follow one of the trails across grassland, boulders and bog, with a backdrop of the Twelve Bens mountain range and far-reaching views across the ocean”.

Wildness is all around us, it’s just a matter of “walking away from fires, towels and teacups.”

Andy Pietrasik
Head of Travel

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Story of the week

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How I found my Dartmoor moment with the gift of wild camping Read more

 

Our travel picks of the week

1

Hiking | A family trek in the southern French Alps Read more

2

Surfing | A family holiday in the French Basque Country Read more  

3

Gastro reboots | 10 of the best renovated English foodie inns Read more  

 

Featured trip

Imperial cities of Morocco

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Wander the medinas of Marrakech, Fez and Rabat, see colonial Casablanca, visit the Jardin Majorelle and discover the Roman site at Volubilis on this unforgettable tour.

 

In other news

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How I ‘bussed’ the myth that Derby is the UK’s worst short break destination

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This week's favourite trips

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Cycling in Albania
- save up to £100pp

Discover the beauty of this lesser known corner of Europe as you cycle from mountain plateau to the Albanian Riviera.

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Scottish Highland railways
See the spectacular scenery of the Scottish Highlands on three celebrated rail journeys including the steam-hauled Strathspey Railway.

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Walk & Discover: Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii
Combine walking through spectacular coastal scenery and olive groves with seeing sights such as Pompeii and Capri.

 

Readers' tips

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Your favourite active holidays in Europe

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Deal of the week

Hidden Portugal - save up to 20%

Enjoy a late escape to Porto and the Douro Valley where you’ll visit a port wine lodge, the Vinho Verde vineyards and the scenic Costa Verde.

Save 20% on 6 October 2024 departures - was from £1,325pp, now from £1,060pp. Prices shown include the discount.

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Image of the week

Driving the Wild Atlantic Way

 
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