Fashion design is a very isolating field to work in, so everyone probably finds ways of having people in their lives to help balance that. Everyone has their own way of achieving their aloneness to get what they need. | | Model/mannequin with cash registers from the National Cash register company, Glamour 1942. (John Rawlings/Condé Nast Collection/Getty Images) | | | | “Fashion design is a very isolating field to work in, so everyone probably finds ways of having people in their lives to help balance that. Everyone has their own way of achieving their aloneness to get what they need.” |
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| rantnrave:// With VOGUE celebrating 125 years and RALPH LAUREN celebrating 50, there are questions floating around about how to deal with legacy for the storied old titles and labels of fashion. For Fall 2017, Ralph Lauren drove show attendees two hours (with traffic) north of NYC to the Lauren compound to take in the show at Ralph's garage, dining on Ralph's burgers, amid Ralph's world class car collection. That's a flex. The show was streamed live and shoppable. Some nice interactive tools on the video to save each look as the model walked down the runway. It's a show I was ready to write off as graceless marketing, but you know what? I liked the collection. The full looks in glen plaid and Prince of Wales check were smart, stately variations on a theme. Loved the high-gloss and shimmering textiles used to reference the sleek lines of machines. The precision tailoring was refreshing to see after a week of intentionally outsized proportions. It brought to mind the brand's earlier days. The RL of the "Old Ralph Lauren Adverts" (that's a TUMBLR) days. Sure, this isn't the first time Lauren has taken to his fine auto collection for inspiration, and some of the ballgowns and racing jackets lacked a bit of imagination, but overall I felt something shifted (no pun intended) with this collection. It brought to mind the better days of Ralph. I've always felt the issues with RL have been less the vision and more the execution—how does one keep product and imagery fresh from a brand so utterly familiar? The Fall 2017 show literally drew show attendees into Ralph's world—meticulously crafted, life in the movies made real. While a CEO blowout and reports on RL business have dominated the company's story for the last few years, considering Ralph Lauren in the broader context of its 50-year history is far more interesting. It's a story of ambition. Striving. The seductive power of the American dream. Today, the story has all the leanings of late empire, cracking at the edges—or just wait—maybe ready to rise again. There's the connection to hip-hop. The absolute and sometimes fatal devotion to the POLO brand. And there's this staring investors in the face every day. Will the company revive itself? FashionSET: Ralph Lauren: American Empire. Will definitely be checking out this exhibition of vintage POLO... Backstage images at VAQUERA... BODEGA apologizes to bodegas... AMAZON opens its first fashion imaging studio in INDIA. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| In its new space on Madison Avenue, Bally is free of attitude but not confidence. | |
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In a rare interview, Vogue’s famed editor in chief discusses the title’s September issue, the Internet - and influence. | |
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The most extravagant show of fashion week was at the designer’s Bedford Hills, N.Y., garage but, overall, fresh impulses have been parked in New York. | |
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Noted runway pit photographer Dan Lecca tells us what fashion week is like from behind the lens. | |
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Watch ‘Bury Me With The Lo On’, a film about the guys that stole hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of Polo and became an influential subculture. | |
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Amid sports cars and sexy female villains, the designer’s best collection in some time. | |
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Getting to grips with Yoho!, one of China’s most influential streetwear platforms for the country’s powerful Post-'90s generation. | |
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Lorod, which is run by two 24-year-olds, shows pre-collections only, not that that's bothered fans like the Haim sisters. | |
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“Delicacy can be strong,” declared Victoria Beckham this NYFW, staying true to a long and illustrious history of dressing women in powerful pastels. | |
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The Alibaba-owned platform announced that it is getting in on the New York Fashion Week action by way of IMG's "The Shows." | |
| Thanks to the boutique, Gucci, Prada, and Saint Laurent will live on eBay. | |
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Meet the casting director who, with Chromat’s Becca McCharen-Tran, is redefining beauty on the runway. | |
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Shaped by Korean cultural influences and a Christian upbringing, the designers behind Sundae School embrace cannabis culture as a way to combat conformity. | |
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Abbi Jacobson and Ilana Glazer's critically-acclaimed web series-turned-Comedy Central smash returns on September 13th. | |
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India led the fashion world in the 16th and 17th centuries through cotton fabric, design motifs, and its customer-centric market system. | |
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Talk of Scottish craftsmanship traditionally evokes romantic imagery of crofters’ cottages, heather-dappled glens and handsome Fair Isle knits being formed over the rhythmic cluck-cluck-cluck of knitting needles. | |
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Why Shayne Oliver is making bizarro it-bags for Helmut Lang and Vaquera's bathrobe ball gown looks so fun. | |
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The past few seasons of New York Fashion Week were full of hand-wringing and existential crises, as designers and observers panicked over how see-now-buy-now and social media were changing the fashion show as we knew it. This season, the dust appears to have settled. "People are adjusting. There's no more panic. | |
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"I give [my team] one mandate and that’s to be inspired." | |
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While Zhang Zetian, wife of JD.com founder Liu Qiangdong, has been making seeming efforts to beef up JD's luxury image, how much sway does she really have? | |
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