The old way of thinking that goes, ‘the new season is blue’ or ‘the new ballerina look’, I am not interested in that. And when the casting people say to me about a model, ‘she is beautiful, she is a new face, she has beautiful legs’ – I don’t care about that at all. I care about the way the girl is romantic, the way she sees the world. | | | | Gucci S/S 2018 at Milan Fashion Week, Sept. 20, 2017.
(Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images) | | | | | | “The old way of thinking that goes, ‘the new season is blue’ or ‘the new ballerina look’, I am not interested in that. And when the casting people say to me about a model, ‘she is beautiful, she is a new face, she has beautiful legs’ – I don’t care about that at all. I care about the way the girl is romantic, the way she sees the world.”
| - | Alessandro Michele, 2017 |
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| | rantnrave:// MILAN FASHION WEEK is on. Show of the day goes to GUCCI S/S 2018. The universe of ALESSANDRO MICHELE is expanding, pushing past cultural boundaries and references to any single moment in time. The collection had an intergalactic feel to it, like what an alien civilization might pick out to wear after soaking up Earth's visual culture. It was a kaleidoscope of logos, pop culture, and history. BUGS BUNNY, MARLBORO, and disco. Centuries of visual culture collapsing in on itself. In our world of niche tastes on a mass scale (I think IAN ROGERS said that first), there's something for everyone. Loved the layers of glittering transparency. Pulsating strobe lights over the runway lent frozen, fragmented glimpses of the collection. Not unlike fashion on the internet. And guess who sat front row? None other than DANIEL DAY, aka DAPPER DAN. Decades after he shuttered his store on 125th St in NYC, DAP is reopening his business in partnership with Gucci. Like he said, "I didn't do knock-offs. I did knock-ups!" FashionSET: CLOSE-UP: Dapper Dan, Harlem to the World. And if you own vintage Dapper Dan, the company is looking to get in touch... Your BOF pro subscription is worth it just for this review by TIM BLANKS... TANK MAGAZINE's piece on high heels is online publishing done right... FASHIONISTA's survey looks at online shopping habits... Baby LOUBOUTINS. | | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Daniel Day, known as Dapper Dan, opened his boutique in Harlem in 1982. Merging style from the streets with luxury logos, Day shuttered his business in the '90s after being sued by luxury companies. Now, with a reopened atelier and a partnership with Gucci, he's bringing Harlem to the world. In his own words, "I didn't do knock-offs, I did knock-ups!" | | |
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| Lou Stoppard moderates a conversation between OFF-White's Virgil Abloh and Louis Vuitton's Kim Jones, in collaboration with Nike. | | |
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| When Emanuele Farneti was named editor, the fashion world was shocked. Now he is the host of the biggest party of Milan Fashion Week. | | |
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| How REI and Patagonia are fighting the Trump administration to protect the environment. | | |
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| This past New York Fashion Week, there was a 200 percent increase in Chinese fashion designers. The reason why says something about the American dream. | | |
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| Take a tour through 40+ years of Patagonia history. | | |
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| Tamsin Blanchard investigates the return of the party heel. | | |
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| Three years ago Faustine Steinmetz was a girl who had taught herself to weave via YouTube tutorials. Now she’s hosting her first catwalk show at London Fashion Week. | | |
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| Munroe Bergdorf discusses working with Illamasqua, why she's willing to continue talking about race and gender, and what's in store for 2017 and beyond. | | |
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| Russell Westbrook’s peacocking sartorial displays are only amplified by his attitude toward the media: unstated but seemingly total scorn. | | |
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| There’s no desk-to-dinner wearability here, only full-throttle glitz and glamour. | | |
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| With an eye on the growing women’s market, historically male-oriented sportswear brands are making changes to their strategy. | | |
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| Forty years after his death, it’s time to give the rocker Marc Bolan his due. | | |
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| Sometimes shoppers just want to browse or pick up packages. | | |
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| Last year just about every major modeling agency came under fire -- and was fined -- for collusion. It started in London. | | |
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| Four out of every five of Nordstrom.com’s mobile web visits come from referral traffic driven by an influencer. | | |
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| Queen Elizabeth I wanted none of it. | | |
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| Huishan Zhang, Haizhen Wang, Xiao Li, Ryan Lo and others are part of a new generation of Chinese designers who are bringing fresh ideas to the table | | |
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| On collaboration, the struggle of London Fashion Week and boxing. | | |
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| After six decades of independent retailing, Joan Burstein -- the legendary Mrs B -- is recognised throughout the industry as a retailer, fashion buyer and talent-spotter supreme, making her a fitting winner of the Drapers Independents Awards Lifetime Achievement accolade. | | |
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