When I was young, Japanese designers travelled the world for inspiration and ideas to bring back. Now, it’s totally upside down, the rest of the world comes to Tokyo, it’s filled with fashion people from overseas who come with their guidebooks and their list of stores to visit. They know a lot more about the city than us now. | | Off-White, Paris Fashion Week, Sept. 28, 2017. (Richard Bord/Getty Images) | | | | “When I was young, Japanese designers travelled the world for inspiration and ideas to bring back. Now, it’s totally upside down, the rest of the world comes to Tokyo, it’s filled with fashion people from overseas who come with their guidebooks and their list of stores to visit. They know a lot more about the city than us now.” |
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| rantnrave:// Along the axis of street/sport/techwear, there's a burgeoning opportunity to get the women's market right. Arguably many women interested in the space enjoy it because it tends to focus less on gender and more on aesthetic unity. And sure, sometimes women's lines feel token or a label lacks real expertise for womenswear. But at the end of the day, there are only so many men's boxy styles to riff on; there are fundamental differences in cut and fit for those that ID as female. With subtlety, some labels can pull it off. HERNO delivers a strong design vision with garments that fall under menswear and womenswear lines, but it's less street, more aligned with ideals of European-style luxury. INTELLIGENCE MAG has a fantastic interview with EIICHIRO HOMMA, managing director of NANAMICA, who affirms the importance of the NORTH FACE PURPLE LABEL's women's line, while acknowledging that, on an aesthetic level, sports-inspired brands tend to be agnostic in terms of gender and age. Aye, there's the rub. How to cater to utopian visions while practically serving actual bodies? It's fashion's seemingly never-ending debate. Other than crossover from fashion houses that design runway ready sneakers and tech-inspired pullovers (even some pieces from THE ROW fit the market), I've not seen many labels getting this space right. That means opportunity. I don't think the market is as niche as some might assume; there just hasn't been a label to go after it in the right way. And of course it blends with fashion (see GRAILED's HEROINE). WGSN is looking for leads in the space... There's been a lot of coverage on DAPPER DAN and legacy, but what about the future? JIAN DELEON's story on Dapper Dan and A$AP FERG is great for its forward-looking momentum. Dap's story crosses generations. Will be interesting to see how his business evolves after the GUCCI deal. Like HARLEM itself, it's in a state of transition. Never stands still... In light of the chilling reports on HARVEY WEINSTEIN that led to his removal from THE WEINSTEIN COMPANY, BOF's team asserts that the era of fashion's "don't ask, don't tell" policies is over... 500 pieces of collectible GIANNI VERSACE are up on FARFETCH... 2017 boy band style, with PRETTYMUCH. | | - HK Mindy Meissen, curator |
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| Tailor Daniel Day, better known as Dapper Dan, is known for outfitting ’80s hip-hop icons in custom kits riffing on high fashion brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, who eventually sued his independent shop out of business for copyright infringement. But decades later, Dapper Dan’s memorable pieces are influencing what goes down the runways more than ever. | |
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Celebrating its fifteenth year, nanamica looks back over its impressive archive with a new book showcasing the company’s highlights since its launch in 2003. Currently stocked in over thirty countries, the brand’s big name collaborations and an ever-expanding mainline full of accessible techwear have drawn a loyal audience both home and abroad. | |
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And why it's so important for the brand to do it right. | |
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Lucy Siegle reports from La Scala, Milan to ask if fashion can ever really be 'green'. | |
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Director, designer, and writer are all labels one could readily apply to Tom Ford-but what about environmentalist? Here, the fashion legend explains his next quest to save the world, one suit at a time. | |
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Yesterday, James Jebbia confirmed that Supreme had sold a 50% stake to private equity firm The Carlyle Group, what does this mean for the cult skate label? | |
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Supreme scaled from scrappy start-up to billion-dollar streetwear juggernaut with private equity funding going back to 2014. | |
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Apps for when you actually have a way normal life for a teenage girl. | |
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The scandal-ridden producer is a fashion-world fixture, and wife Georgina Chapman's brand is a Hollywood red-carpet mainstay. Now what? | |
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Weinstein’s accusers were muffled for more than two decades, but today's connected world won't tolerate this sort of behaviour in any industry, including fashion. | |
| Endeavor will be run by chief executive officer Ariel Emanuel and executive chairman Patrick Whitesell. | |
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More popular doesn’t necessarily mean better. | |
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"Brands better start thinking of how to bring new things to people or else the G is not going to be a freaking Gucci, that s*** is going to be Google." | |
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The designer emerged from sabbatical to work with the sportswear company on a new collection that includes a much-anticipated sneaker. | |
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Claire Waight Keller’s debut collection for the house combined references to its design icons with a smattering of fresh new ideas, writes Alexander Fury. | |
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Here is what you need to know about JD's new luxury e-commerce site "Toplife", which is a competing platform to Alibaba's "Luxury Pavilion". | |
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It’s been said that if you want to know how the economy is doing, look at how many people are carrying shopping bags. That adage may not hold so well today. The rise of the internet and e-commerce over the past two decades has chipped away at the market share of “brick and mortar” retailers. | |
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Asked about Harvey Weinstein, the designer said: “How do we present ourselves as women? What are we asking? Are we asking for it?” | |
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Patrizia Yanguela has 1.4 million followers on Instagram and regularly partners with fitness, lingerie and fashion brands on promotional posts and photo shoots. We called up Yanguela to chat about the industry's stigma with lingerie models and how she deals with the constant judgment on social media. | |
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