You don’t need to go to LA to witness it. I counted seven people wearing trench coats on my commute from east London this morning, including two in the French label Sézane – its £275 Clyde trench has a distinctive checked lining, visible on rolled-up sleeves. Sienna Miller is a fan and it consistently sells out. There are even YouTube videos and more recently, a Reddit forum dedicated to the Clyde. Then of course, there’s high-street giants such as M&S, who each season brings out a new iteration of the trench. It’s seeing a spike in sales of its double-breasted longline trench, while a cropped trench is the No 4 best-selling piece in its entire coat category. The style has a trickle down and trickle up effect in the industry. Designers spanning Dior to Balenciaga included trenchcoats in their spring/summer 2025 collections. Gigi Hadid has worn a see-through PVC trenchcoat, while Rihanna favours a leather version. And this week, Kendall Jenner wore a trench that can be belted at the waist and the neck. Now we are even seeing the emergence of what might be called Frankentrenches. John Lewis, Aligne and Albaray are championing trenchcoats with detachable capes. Others are taking it further. Cos has a cropped and sleeveless trench top. At Zara, a white halter neck top comes spliced with what looks like the mid section from a trenchcoat – belt and all. Meanwhile, Arket appears to have chopped a trenchcoat in half, selling a midi skirt with all the classic hallmarks of the coat – slanted pockets, double buttons and belt – but only from the waist down. Originally worn by military officers in the literal trenches, this season’s riffs have completely reimagined the coat’s roots. I’m not sure what Thomas Burberry, who invented the traditional waterproof gabardine fabric in 1879, would make of a halterneck trench top, nor of Liem and her fellow influencers wearing a uniform trench look. Flattered or perhaps, like many, flummoxed. |